Knit Cross Over Prem Cardigan Pattern

Hello, hello, hello again!

In my last post I gave you a history of how I started to crochet. Today, it's all about the knitting.  

When I was younger, probably around 12 years old, my mum attempted to teach me how to knit...  It did not go well.  I couldn't cast on, I couldn't bind off, I could only just about do the knit stitch (with many a dropped stitch, and "Mum, I don't know what I've done - here fix it!").  

Fast forward 20 years, and after learning to crochet, I asked my mum to teach me how to knit again.  So one evening, she came around, we sat and she taught me the basics: casting on, knit, purl, binding off.  I hated it!  I was so confident with my crochet work with one hook, and now I was horribly inept at yarn manipulation with two needles.  It felt like I was all fingers and thumbs.

I wouldn't give in though, I remembered what is was like when I first taught myself to crochet.  I could do this!  I kept at it, making garter stitch and stockinette stitch dish cloths like a mad woman, and after a couple of weeks or so, I improved my tension and felt more comfortable with knitting and ready to venture into a pattern.  

My knitting has come a long way since then, although I will never be a speedy knitter and still do the, " Mum, I don't know what I've done - here, fix it!".  For that reason, I tend to stick with double knit yarn and chunky-ish needles (between size 5 & 7) when I create my own patterns. 

The pattern below works up relatively quickly, I think it took me two evenings to create, and is adorable.  

Wrap Around Prem Cardigan

Materials

• Double knit yarn
• Size 7 (4.5mm) needles
• Darning needle
• 2 or 4 buttons

Cast on 28

Rows 1-6: knit (garter stitch)

Rows 7 - 16: stockinette stitch

Row 17: cast on 7, knit

Row 18: cast on 7, purl

Row 19: cast on 7 knit

Row 20: cast on 7, k4, p48, k4

Row 21: knit

Row 22: k4, p48, k4

Row 23: knit

Row 24: k4, p48, k4

Row 25: knit

Row 26: k4, p48, k4

Row 27: knit

Row 28: k4, p10, k28, p10, k4

Row 29: knit

Row 30: k4, p10, k28, p10, k4

Row 31: knit

Row 32: k4, p10, k28, p10, k4

Row 33: k18, place those stitches onto a stitch holder, bind off 20, k18

Left sleeve and front panel

Row 34: k4, p10, k4

Row 35: k1, yarn forward, k1, k16

Row 36: k4, p11, k4

Row 37: k1, yarn forward, k1, k17

Row 38: k4, p12, k4

Row 39: k1, yarn forward, k1, k18

Row 40: k4, p13, k4

Row 41: k1, yarn forward, k1, k19

Row 42: k4, p14, k4

Row 43: k1, yarn forward, k1, k20

Row 44: k4, p15, k4

Row 45: k1, yarn forward, k1, k21

Row 46: k4, p16, k4

Row 47: k1, yarn forward, k1, k22

Row 48: bind off 7, p14, k4

Row 49: k1, yarn forward, k1, k16

Row 50: bind off 7, p8 k4

Row 51: k1, yarn forward, k1, k10

Row 52: p9, k4

Row 53: k1, yarn forward, k1, k11

Row 54: p10, k4

Row 55: k1, yarn forward, k1, k12

Row 56: p11, k4

Row 57: k1, yarn forward, k1, k13

Row 58: p12, k4

Row 59: k1, yarn forward, k1, k14

Row 60: p13, k4

Row 61: k1, yarn forward, k1, k15

Row 62: p14, k4

Row 63: k1, yarn forward, k1, k16

Row 64: knit

Row 65: k1, yarn forward, k1, k17

Row 66: knit 

Row 67: k1, yarn forward, k1, k18

Row 68: knit 

Bind off in knit

Right sleeve and front panel

Transfer held stitches back onto needle

Row 34: k4, p10, k4

Row 35: k17, yarn forward, k1

Row 36: k4, p11, k4

Row 37: k18, yarn forward, k1

Row 38: k4, p12, k4

Row 39: k19, yarn forward, k1

Row 40: k4, p13, k4

Row 41: k20, yarn forward, k1

Row 42: k4, p14, k4

Row 43: k21, yarn forward, k1 

Row 44: k4, p15, k4

Row 45: k22, yarn forward, k1

Row 46: k4, p16, k4

Row 47: k23, yarn forward, k1

Row 48: bind off 7, p14, k4

Row 49: k17, yarn forward, k1

Row 50: bind off 7, p8 k4

Row 51: k11, yarn forward, k1

Row 52: p9, k4

Row 53: k12, yarn forward, k1

Row 54: p10, k4

Row 55: k13, yarn forward, k1

Row 56: p11, k4

Row 57: k14, yarn forward, k1

Row 58: p12, k4

Row 59: k15, yarn forward, k1

Row 60: p13, k4

Row 61: k16, yarn forward, k1

Row 62: p14, k4

Row 63: k17, yarn forward, k1

Row 64: knit

Row 65: k18, yarn forward, k1

Row 66: knit 

Row 67: k19, yarn forward, k1

Row 68: knit 

Bind off in knit

Sew the seams up to form sleeves and to join the back panel to the front panels (I used a mattress seam, but use whichever method according to your preference)

Attach 2 buttons, using the yarn forward increases as button holes.

Alternatively, you can attach 4 buttons so that the cardigan can be buttoned up either way.

And there you have it!  Happy Knitting!

Crochet (Ventilator Friendly) Prem Hat

Hello, hello, hello and welcome!  

I'm really excited to get this blog going and see where it takes me!  

To get things started, I thought I would share a crochet pattern that I have written,  I donate a lot of my knit and crochet work for a wonderful group called Teeny Treasures, who supply knit and crocheted blankets and clothing to neonatal units across the UK.  

This pattern is one of my go-to patterns when I'm short on time as it's really quick to whip up, and is super cute to boot!  It is also ventilator friendly for the little ones who need a bit of extra help.  The first row is worked flat, and then the hat is worked in the round.

Crochet (Ventilator Friendly) Prem Hat.

The things that you'll need:

• 4 mm hook
• 4 ply yarn (you can use double knit for a chunkier and slightly larger hat)
• darning needle

Abbreviations:

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet
• ss = slip stitch

Chain 42

Row 1: dc in the 3rd ch from hook, dc in each chain across.  Ss into 2nd ch, ensuring the row does not twist. 

Round 2:  ch 3, (skip 1 dc, dc into next dc, ch 1)* *repeat to end of round, ss into 2nd ch of round

Round 3:  ch 2, dc in each dc and ch 1 space, ss to first the 2nd ch of round

Round 4-11: ch 2, dc in each st, ss to first the 2nd ch of round

Tie off and weave in ends.  When weaving in the end for Row 1, ensure that you join the the beginning and end of Row 1 at the bottom.

Ch 60, tie off and weave the chain through the chain 1 spaces that were made in Round 2, pull to close and tie in a bow.

How the hat looks before pulling closed at the top.
This design allows for any tubes to be used while
baby can still wear their hat to keep warm

When crocheted in 4 ply yarn the hat will have (approximately) a 10" diameter and be (approximately) 4 1/2" long which will fit around 28 weeks gestation.

When crocheted in double knit the hat will have (approximately) a 11 1/2" diameter and be (approximately) 5" long which will fit around 30-32 weeks gestation.
And there you have it!  Happy Hooking!